Districts and Estates

The island has 7 major districts which contain a total of some 42 sub districts with 32 agro climates all contributing to the amazing variety of Ceylon teas which has given them their worldwide reputation. Each major district may be compared to the wine regions of France producing very definable different characters and liquor colours for the teas. The 32 agro climates compare to the differences in areas like Bordeaux where there are a number of sub districts for wine growing dependent on their aspect to the river and the how the wind blows in from the Atlantic.

Below against each district classification are the recently internationally registered and accepted logos which can only be placed on the packaging of a brand if it is packed in the island and the tea has been tested and passed by the Tea Board as complying as stated on the packaging.

Districts: Uva – Nuwara Eliya – Uda Pussellawa – Dimbula/Dickoya – Kandy – Ruhunu – Sabaragamuwa

Production for total High growns shown below, includes Uvas and Westerns such as Nuwara Eliya, Uda Pussellawa and Dimbula in kilos:

1965 = 91,532,694 – 1994 = 118,060,000 – 1998 = 77,390,000 – 2009 =116,600,000. High elevation production has been on the decline compared to Low elevation production. The Low elevation production was 173.2 million in 2009. In 2017 the annual production of High grown quality teas above 1,067 metres (3,500 feet) was 65 million kilos and the Mid grown production was 46 million kilos, a total of 111 million kilos against the annual production of Low grown teas amounting to 197 million kilos. A total reversal of the situation prior to 1984.

The high grown teas exude character and the market for these natural intense flavours has declined. In my opinion this may be due to their unusual character and being more difficult for the trade (supermarkets & shops) to comprehend. Generally speaking, sales staff sell by brand and have little time to explain anything slightly complicated. In these commercially driven days packs rarely exhibit the provenance of a tea, as teas are largely blended to control the price level down and to create as few queries from potential customers as possible which might slow or stop the sale. As long as the packaging is attractive and persuading, the contents are not important. The fact that 60 hand pluckers have been employed to pick the right leaves and the Tea-maker with his or her thirty years experience has used every skill possessed, in wanting to create a wonderful experience for the ultimate consumer, is as far as the commercial world is concerned irrelevant because the average consumer believes tea should cost no more than a bottle of mineral water. That is the depressing reality in the main but thank goodness there are some enlightened purveyors of tea who wish to engage with their customers and extol how the virtues of crafted teas. My concern when visiting the estates is the pressure that thy are under to abandon the traditional and tested systems of quality manufacture and to install ever more efficient machinery that will mince and tear the leaves at greater speed and lower costs.

The island is 270 miles long by 140 miles wide at the widest, with a mean width of 100 miles. The North of the island is flat, and dry being known as the dry zone but in the Southern half there is a large central area of mountains rising at their highest to 8,000 feet (2,438 metres) and it is within this area that the high grown teas grow, whilst to the West and south of these mountains is a large area of low lying lands called the ‘Low Country,’ which sweep from the West in line with Colombo down Southwards and to the East below the central mountain area. This area has highly fertile deep alluvial soils washed down from the mountains, containing large deposits of gems. The area contains two important low elevation districts in Sabaragamuwa and Ruhunu with a maximum elevation of 2,625 feet (800 metres). The area is hot and humid with high rainfall. These conditions produce different made teas to the higher mountain range. The island is surrounded by large expanses of oceans which exert their influence on the character of the teas.

In 1971 – 1972 the Government Nationalised the company owned estates in the higher elevations, believing this would create greater wealth for the island. At this time, The lowland area which was almost totally covered with small to medium Sinhalese family holdings of mixed agricultural production with some tea. With the help of Government subsidies to plant up the Tea Research Institutes(T.R.I) vegetative Propagated (VP) high yielding clonal 2000 series tea, developed in the 1950’s. The lowland area is very hot and humid and traditionally this produced a beautiful looking large grade black sheen to the made tea, using a slower rolling programme with lighter pressure. However the liquors were very burnt tasting and used only in blending to improve appearance. With the introduction of special cooling equipment in the factories, it became possible to create acceptable liquors for marketing on their own. That combined with the high yields from new planting with TRI 2000 series clones, allowed the area to become a very important production area. Low production costs within the family units and a few central family factories purchasing green leaf from the many small surrounding smallholdings created a very profitable production area. The Government Nationalised estates on the other hand were making huge losses and the Government decided in 1991 when prices were below the cost of production to return the Nationalised estates to a form of Privatisation via locally owned companies. The Government retained the ownership of the land and allowed some 23 local companies to tender for blocks of estates on leasehold for a period of 10 years which was ridiculous. Realising, that investors were merely interested in stripping the estates of profit without any input as they were not guaranteed to retain the lease after ten years, the Government increased the lease period to 50 years. I well remember my experience in 1995 when as a family we had the experience to stay on a Nuwara Eliya estate for a period. The day before we drove up the Superintendent had been locked up in the estate office with the clerks and the workers were piling brushwood around the office preparing to burn it down as they had not received their wages. The house boy ran down the valley and alerted the Police station of the situation, who called in the army with a helicopter and they released those in the office. The army left a short wave radio for any future crisis. Later after arrival I went on a tour of the estate and walking through the withering loft with the leaf coming in, I commented it was dark and difficult to see the leaf. The Superintendent explained they only had one strip light as the estate could not afford anymore. He also explained that he had hired a lorry to collect the leaf from the field as the estate could not afford to repair the estate lorry. This was a very illuminating experience of life with the prices that were being paid for their teas at that 1990’s period.

Seasonal period tea production

It is important to point out that during the two quality seasons on estates that are above 3,500 feet (1,066 metres) the factory staff are brought in for night-time production. The factory has cooled down from the heat in the day allowing the heavy volatile oils expressed from the leaves during manufacture to be captured, to create the flavour levels we are seeking to produce for that area and elevation. Compare that with the constant pressure from the trade to grind down the tea leaves to create stronger liquors to combat water quality, support convenience and lower prices. Natural Flavours can only be developed with a lighter touch to the manufacture.

Uva District Teas – Eastern highlands

The rolling tea of Haputale with dotted shade trees for shade and humas to the soil

Relevant to: Iddalgashinne, Thotulagala and Shawlands.

Stretching out Eastwards from Nuwara Eliya district is another classic character tea area, with rolling hills rising from the long deep Malwatta valley, reaching towards the Eastern lowlands and the sea. The district covers a large area extending North almost back to the Kandy district and South to the borders of the lowland district of Sabaragamuwa. In the Southern section of this district are the steeply rising Beragala hills with Iddalgashinna estate rising to 1,981 metres (6,500 feet). The season for really top quality teas is from July to August when prices rise steeply. The liquors vary in colour from a reddish colour at the lower levels to a rosier/red hue at the higher elevations. The character of an Uva tea in this season is a smooth menthol character. Outside the quality season, the teas are more mellow and popular for blending and improving teas. A recent development with pressure from the market is the addition of Methyl Salicylate (sometimes known as Wintergreen oil). This is largely confined to one popular group of estates that we used to work with. Traditionally as mentioned above, the district has little development of flavour outside the quality season. Unfortunately, even in the quality season with the changing weather cycles, the conditions for flavour development can be unreliable and certain marketing interests have required a group of estates to add Methyl Salicylate, a naturally occurring additive throughout the year for marketing consistency. More concerning markets like Japan have demanded that this additive is not added and another group of estates have agreed that they will not add this additive. We work with one estate from that group and have to rely on whatever natural level of flavour that the season brings. Part of the reason for avoiding any additive is that when adding an additive, controlling the exact level required can be problematic.
The district possesses deep cut passes at Haputale and Iddalgashinna which funnel the Eastern cool Cachan wind from the Bay of Bengal that helps in the development of the world renowned Uva flavour that exhibits some astringency on it’s liquors.

Dimbula and Dickoya District Teas

Laxapana Estate, Dimbula

Relevant to: Brunswick, Laxapana and Chrystler’s Farm.

From Kandy to Dimbula on the Western hills, the elevation begins to rise more steeply, Dimbula district starts at 1,100 metre (3,500 feet), rising to 1,600 metres (5,000 feet). The character in the teas comes from the fact that the island has a central mountainous area situated in the middle of the island. The Western slopes of these mountains face the huge Indian ocean lying off the coastal belt. Above 1,100 metres (3,500 feet) the dry weather and cool wind that has traveled across Indian ocean in February creates character (flavour) in the teas rather than the normal taste.
This district produces some really superb breakfast all day teas and the large grades such as O.P. give some lighter afternoon teas. To some palates the liquors may exhibit a slight oakiness with a good bright coppery red colour that can take milk well if required. For me, the teas in a teapot, if made well and not over rotorvaned should exhibit that classic aroma as one drives up to a tea factory, a sort of mix of apples and pears. At these higher elevations, the tea-maker concentrates on the development of flavour (district character) rather than leaf appearance. In the quality season, estates above 1,100 metres (3,500 feet) bring staff into dormitory accommodation at the factory for nighttime manufacture when the conditions in the factories are cooler and conducive to preserving the volatile oils expressed by faster rolling or treatment of the leaf. How I wish that the rotorvane had never been invented! Seasonal nighttime production will apply to the other higher districts as well.

The district contains the famous Adam’s Peak mentioned in some ancient texts found in the Middle East. In the months of February and March thousands of pilgrims of every faith and none flock to climb the mountain on the night arriving at the summit for the breaking of dawn right out on the East coast and the rising sun casts the shadow of the mountain across the Western lowlands. The centre of the Pilgrim’s attention being the so called footprint at the top said to be that of the Buddha but also ascribed teach of the other religions.

Nuwara Eliya District Teas

View of a Lover’s Leap field being re-supplied with VP

Neat travel Eastwards bypassing the Golden valley via Hatton, rising steeply to the Tea Reserch Institute (T.R.I) at Talawakele and rising ever higher past Somerset estate (another much older Somerset estate in Dolosbage) and arriving at Nuwara Eliya town set in a plateau at 1,868 metres (6,128 feet) with surrounding estates often well over 2,133 metres (7,000 feet). Nuwara Eliya teas develop a special character in the South/Western season and the Eastern extremity of the district where the mountains fall sharply down to the deep Uva Malwatta valley and the Eastern Rolling hills of Uva again. Teas on this ridge sometimes receive some influence from the failing Cachan wind. Outside of the South/Western season and a possible short period in August, Nuwara Eliya district character cannot be developed. The high elevation of this district in the season strips some of the colour from the liquors and produces a lively bright, clear, light orange colour that distinguishes a Nuwara Eliya tea from the other districts. The character is often described as a light citrus flavour. Outside of the season, the colour is slightly rosy. Through December to January the district can experience quite heavy frosts. The district borders the Horton plains, a high plateau of grasslands and special species of rain forest trees situated at 2,100 -2,300 metres (6,900 -7,500 feet), supporting large herds if Elk and numbers of Leopard. To the East is a precipitous shoulder of mount Pidurutalagala 2,524 metres (8,280 feet) called Lover’s Leap. Legend has it that s Kandyan prince became attached to a maiden of low caste and when the King heard of it they fled, pursued by the King’s soldiers. Seeing that there was no hope, it is said that they embraced and leapt from the precipice. Over the years our Lover’s Leap tea has won several Gold or 3 star awards in the United Kingdom.

Relevant to: Lover’s Leap, Mahagastota and Kenmare

Kandy District Teas – Mid elevation

Doteloya Former Family Estate Visit

Doteloya is one of the four estates that my family owned in the Dolosbage hills or ridge above Gampola and the Gampola area was the first area that the early coffee planters choose to create coffee estates in, later converted to tea. Indeed, the estate had the didtinction of being named by its Tamil workers as “Blackett Nona” (Blackett Lady”). This was a reference to the way that James Blackett’s wife, Catherine devoted herself to caring for their familes, who also were caught up in the terrible coffee disaster. For many years the famous Ferguson’s Directory printed that Tamil name for the estate in the heading for the listing of the estates in that district.

 The factory retains the old traditional system of manufacture with the twist rollers which undoubtedly are the basis of the quality it achieves. The area is also a truly fascinating one with high rising hills and deep valleys that channel up the cool wind from the Indian Ocean in February/March vital to quality seasonal manufacture on the dry period.although. Being a mid country estate the area only receives some quality because part of the estate rises to 1,219 metres (4,000 feet).

In our guided tour the superintendent pointed out the areas of interest. Travelling to where the old original bungalow was, we passed through some jungle, not original rain forest but as it turned out the abandoned coffee area after the disease that wiped out coffee for our family. The superintendent pointed out coffee bushes in the jungle where cardamoms were also growing. These two products are still harvested today from that jungle area.

Below I quote parts of the estate report by Mr. Chandana Priyashantha, superintendent at the time of my visit:

The conserved area of old rain forest is largely on a high boundary ridge of hills around the estate extending for some 2.5 miles and conservation of the area is by the estate. This area of forest is of lowland and sub/montane/montane rain forest. This area is vital to the survival of threatened endemic species such as a lizard, Ceylon magpie, Jungle fowl (the origin of our chicken today), Spur Fowl, Hanging Parrot, chestnut-backed Owlet, Grey Hornbill, Black Eagle and several others. This forest is the last major area remaining of the original mass of rain forest that covered the Dolosbage hills and indeed the rest of this central mountainous area of the island prior to the year 1800 A.D..

Tea is the major crop while Cardamoms, Pepper, Cloves and coffee are minor crops. Originally the estate was 650 acres in extent but today it extends to 572 acres and supports 400 workers and 37 staff members. The estate with some bought in leaf from small holdings produces 700,000 Kgs of made black tea annually. The estate lies between 3,000 feet (914 metres) to 4,000 feet (1,219 metres) in elevation.

The estate has achieved ISO 22000 to 22005 food safety certification, has Ethical Tea Partnership certification and achieved three all time record prices for Western Medium tea. The estate was also awarded ‘Best Agricultural Practices’ , Highest Profitability’ and ‘Best Worker Welfare’ awards recently.

The B.O.P. grade leaf tea produces a traditional reddish hue for this area and produces an excellent all day tea with some quality. It will also balance milk where that is required although I personally drink all Ceylon teas without milk.

The teas from this huge district are generally considered to be of medium elevation, running from approximately 1,700 feet in elevation up to 3, 500 feet but with a few individual divisions on estates rising to 4,500 feet. Driving up from Colombo the road is slow to rise for the first 37 miles reaching only 212 feet in elevation, it then rises 400 feet in 12 miles but the significant rise is up to and through through the Kadagannawa pass where the tea scenery changes with a rise of over 1,000 feet in 13 miles and 900 of that rise is in a stretch of 6 miles.

The teas from this area are best made in February/ March and then again from July/ September, during the two dry seasons. The teas are red in colour, during the dry weather they possess excellent clarity and are brisk but do not normally exhibit character/flavour, being described as having taste and some thickness or maltyness. The teas were traditionally much sought after for blending, although naturally planters prized their own teas from their own factory, from which the tea-maker would make a blend for the bungalow of about 65 % B.O.P. & 35 % B.O.P.F. It is important to understand that those two grades prior to 1964, were 2- 3 times the size of leaf that is produced today, producing a slightly lighter brew compared to the modern fascination for small leaf, quick brewing, high caffeine teas. In fact this District produces some excellent much sought after large grade teas such as O.P.and O.P.1’s.

Kadugannawa and Dolosbage evoke memories of the British occupation in 1800 when the British army used the Kadugannawa pass as an entry point to the Kandy King’s kingdom. As one nears Kadugannawa on the old pass there is a huge rock across the road with a hole blasted in it and it is said that the Sinhalese believed that whoever made a hole through that rock would take the kingdom of Kandy. The other main pass being to the South at Ginigathena, close to Kenilworth estate. Dolosbage and Kadugannawa being where the earliest coffee estates were established in the 1830’s rising up into Pussellawa. Then came the transformation of coffee to tea virtually in the same area on the edge of Pussellawa and Hewaheta districts. This area was highly significant to the taking of Kandy and also to the start of the plantation venture to fund the development of the island in those early years. Dolosbage was where my family began planting and opening several coffee estates from Crown lands including Penylan, Meddegodda, Glenalmond and Jak Tree estate. 

Uda Pussellawa

This district is sometimes combined with Uva in July/August or Nuwara Eliya in February/ March because depending on the strength of the ocean winds in those two periods it can receive quality production conditions in both periods.

The district lies to the North & East of Nuwara Eliya District, extending Northwards back to the large Kandy district. The district lies between 950 metres (3,000 feet), rising to 1,980 metres (6,500 feet). The district receives it’s main seasonal influence from the Uva season but can also receive some influence from the South/Western season. Outside of the Uva season the liquors are darker with n amber hue, are strong and vibrant. In the season the liqiors are fairly strong, have a rosy hue and with some hint of a floral character, slightly darker than the Nuwara Eliyas. The estates running close to the Nuwara Eliya boundary exhibit a rosy red colour, rather than the lighter orange colour of Nuwara Eliya and usually contain a bit more body. Later around December when frosts can occur the liquor takes on a rosy hue from the prevailing conditions. During periods of rain the liquor is darker in colour and with a bit more body. These teas are much used in blends and flavouring.

Ruhunu District Teas – Low elevation

Relevant to: Uruwala & Dellawa.

The low grown areas of Ruhunu and Sabaragamuwa possess a climate that is more humid than the districts in the hills. They also experience exceptionally high photosynthesis of the leaves which creates the black sheen on the large very black looking leaf created by slower rolling and lighter pressure rolling with traditional rollers. The teas are full flavoured, bright and strong with liquors that are coppery red.
Tea was not established in this low elevation area until about the 1930’s to any extent. This district has a warm and humid climate, lying in the Southern lowlands extending from Galle in the West to Hambantota in the East, then turning inland to Timbolketiya and running Westwards again to Deniyaya, Tawalama, skirting the Southern boundary if the Sinharaja Rain Forest and back to Kosgoda on the West coast. Rising gently from sea level to a maximum of 610 metres (2,000 feet).

As with all Ceylon teas, the best quality is always obtained in a good length of dry weather. However the low country is well below character development elevation. The district receives a dry humid season from late December to April and then copious amounts of rain from the South/Western Monsoon, from Late April to June or early July, followed by some dry weather and rains from September to December, or that is what is meant to happen. The district produces a very wide range of teas, B.O.P. Sp, Pekoe (P), O.P., O.P.1, FF1, FF Sp, FF EX Sp and the very expensive Silver tips (just buds). The conditions allow slower lighter pressure rolling with traditional rollers which allows the silvery or golden buds to show and the large twisted leaf exhibits silvery stripes or bands on the very black leaf. As has been explained earlier only after special cooling equipment was installed in the factories could an acceptable marketable leaf be created. Uruwela, a family owned estate is one of the top marks for the area. The brews are light red in colour, clear, brisk, thicker and jucier than the teas from Sabaragamuwa, the other lowland district. The teas from this area are best in dry weather but market well throughout the year.
As
 I have already mentioned the area contains many locally owned smallholdings with a variety of products as well as small areas of tea. The secret to buying in green leaf from holdings like this is for the buying factory to have as strict a policy as possible on the quality of the leaf that they will accept. Traditional rollers do not like coarse leaf. Good communication is vital and possibly a bonus scheme to encourage quality leaf.

Sabaragamuwa District Teas

New Vithanakande Estate

This lowland area prior to Nationalisation in 1971 produced bitter tasting but shinny black teas and its teas were only considered usable as a blending tea, adding the shiny black element to the eye, thus improving the look of a tea. However with the introduction of commercial dehumidifiers into the factory the lowland estates which are owned by local families, were able to produce highly marketable quality teas that returned very high prices. New Vithanakande is a small acerage of tea with a very modern factory and buildings situated right on the edge of famous UNESCO World Heritage Sinharaja rain forest and the estate relies totally on a well established price scale which ensures quality leaf from 6,000 to 6,500 locally owned smallholders with tea acerages varying from 1 hectare, rising to some holdings with 23 hectares. The strict management of this unusual system attracts some of the very highest prices for the estates manufactured tea at auction in Colombo. We obtain by direct purchase from the estate two top quality tea grades New Vithanakande B.O.P. 1 and F.B.O.P. Ex Sp1. The B.O.P. 1 grade won the Highly Recommended section of the U.K. Tea Councils “Leafy” Competition with teas entered from around the world.

The elevation ranges from 91 metres (300 feet) to 823 metres (2,700 feet). The climate is again hot and humid, with this are receiving the highest rainfall of any area in the island. The liquors are lighter and slightly more aromatic than for Ruhunu, the leaves receive very high levels of photosynthesis combined with the heavy rainfall from June to August. From July to September the far Eastern end of the district can experience some influence from the failing Cachan Uva wind. Manufacture is of the large leaf grades which like Ruhunu are black and shiny in appearance. Unlike Ruhunu teas the liquirs produce a sweet caramel taste with a slight dryness on the tongue that lingers. The teas are particularly sought after by the Moddle East market and the former Soviet Union areas but are slowly gaining favour in Western markets too. The area around Sitawaka is recorded in the history books for the fierce bloody battles against the Portuguese occupiers.

Another lowland district which curves to the West around the high rising Western hills containing the famous Adam’s Peak. This region is more in land and contains the extremely valuable alluvial plains that contain large deposits of gems washed down over many centuries from the higher mountains on its border. Like Ruhuna the climate here is hot and humid and largely unprotected from the South/Western monsoon rains it receives persistent heavy rains. The area surrounding Ratnapura has the highest rainfall of any area in the island. The Eastern end of the district joins the Ruhunu district boundary at Deniyaya and that end receives the last vestiges of the cool drying Cachan wind in July/August as the wind runs out of energy. The liquors are coppery red with some dryness on the tongue but a sweet caramel taste combines to make an interesting tea. The liquors are not quite as thick and juicy as the  Ruhunu teas.

Summary of Ceylon Tea Production

To people who love their teas, Ceylon teas have a fascinating breadth of naturally occurring flavours and characters to them as I have already described, which develop not just from the soil and the elevation that the bushes grow at but from the interaction of complex weather conditions. However if this amazing little island surrounded by oceans with its lowlands and steep mountains creating such a variety of teas is to continue providing such teas, itis vital:

1. That consumers seek these teas and demand them in order to halt the march to mediocrity.

2. That consumers understand the complexity and skills needed to produce such teas.

3. Be prepared to pay more that the cost of a bottle of mineral water.

4. Then we may be able to pay the estate workers at a level which at least compares to other workers in the island and hopefully a bit more to compensate for the need for them to go out in all weathers to secure the crop daily. If the present skilled pluckers decide city life is preferable and unfortunately many are already doing so, then it will be too late to save this fascinating industry that the British created in this beautiful island and machines will take over to produce a totally different product.

We can keep seeking the remaining top estates as we do at the right time of year and accept the awards for the quality we obtain but there comes a time when that is meaningless, if the commercial interests are only interested in how low the cost of tea can be driven in order for them to believe that is success. Convenience of course is extremely persuasive and easy to satisfy but it is also an extremely destructive force.The above information was compiled by Robert Wilson, of Robert Wilson’s ‘Ceylon’ Tea U.K. and may not be used or copied without his permission and reference to source.

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